Niacinamide is an ingredient in many creams, lotions, and serums. It carefully cares for the skin, fights against irregularities and age-related changes. We understand what cosmetics with niacinamide are and how it works.
What is niacinamide
Niacinamide is a form of water-soluble B vitamin in the B3 form. It relieves itching, irritation, peeling, improves skin quality and gives it a healthy look. B3 was first used to treat pellagra, a skin disease that was common in the United States in the early 20th century.
In the 1930s, the American biochemist Conrad Arnold Elvehyem synthesized niacinamide from B3. The new component began to be used for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. In physical form, it looks like an ordinary white powder without taste and smell.
Niacinamide has a simple formula, so it suits almost any skin type. Niacinamide penetrates into the stratum corneum and starts the process of cell renewal. At the same time, it strengthens the protective barrier, relieves excessive sensitivity, evens out tone, fights pigmentation, moisturizes, enhances collagen production, smoothes the skin, and also acts on wrinkles.
There is a study where subjects used a moisturizing lotion with SPF 30, 5% niacinamide, peptides and antioxidants, and a moisturizing cream with the same anti-wrinkle composition. After 8 weeks, the skin of the participants became smoother, the number of wrinkles under the eyes decreased.
What you need to know about niacinamide in cosmetics
In the book “What You Rub In,” Maria Atchikova, a journalist and beauty editor with 15 years of experience, draws attention to an important nuance: niacinamide works well at a concentration of 1–5%. This percentage is optimal for daily care. Dermatologists agree with this opinion. Increasing the concentration can already be dangerous. For example, 10% niacinamide in cosmetics does not guarantee good results. But because of it, redness and allergies can appear, especially if the skin is sensitive.
As Maria Atchikova notes, in volumes greater than 10%, niacinamide can cause erythrema – redness due to vasodilation. Therefore, when choosing cosmetics, you need to take into account the sensitivity of the skin and its tendency to allergies.
There are no contraindications to the use of niacinamide, but it is better to test the product first. To do this, apply the tool on the inside of the hand. If irritation or redness occurs, the product should be washed off quickly.
How to use cosmetics with niacinamide
Niacinamide is friendly with moisturizing ingredients and even antioxidants. It is easy to combine with a large number of base products.
However, niacinamide is difficult to combine with acids and especially AHAs. In combination, the component may lose its beneficial properties, cause irritation and redness. Therefore, when applying several products at the same time, you need to select products with an optimal level of acidity, or pH. A neutral value between 5 and 7 is considered the most suitable. If you are not sure about your skills as a young chemist, it is better to consult a beautician and a doctor.
There are cosmetics that immediately combine the optimal amount of acids and niacinamide. For example, Don’t touch my Retinol serum. The main component in the composition is retinol, but it is neatly supplemented with niacinamide in a small concentration – only 5%, and lactic acid.
According to Debra Jaliman, M.D. and board certified dermatologist, leave-in cosmetics with niacinamide work best: creams, serums, boosters. However, masks also give good results. And the order of application depends on the care system that you follow.
What cosmetics with niacinamide to buy
DON’T TOUCH MY SKIN Exfoliating Lotion 3% Niacinamide
Price: 2 090 rubles
Niacinamide in a volume of 3% fights irritations, strengthens the protective barrier, reduces the production of sebum. It does not conflict with salicylic acid (2%), which dissolves sebum and unclogs pores. Mandelic acid (5%) gently exfoliates dead skin cells. Azeloglycine (3%) and licorice extract inhibit pigment production and reduce oiliness of the skin. The lotion is produced by the DON’T TOUCH MY SKIN brand. An interview with its founder Adel Miftahova can be read at the link.
CeraVe micellar water with three types of niacinamide
Price: 1,243 rubles
A universal remedy not only removes makeup, but also moisturizes the skin. It contains three essential ceramides – these are fats that create the stratum corneum of the skin. Their task is to protect against harmful influences and preserve moisture. Helps restore and strengthen the protective barrier of the skin. Suitable for the skin around the eyes and does not require rinsing with water.
Lipikar Baune AP+M LaRoche-Posay Lipid-Replenishing Face and Body Balm
Price: from 559 rubles
The balm does not contain fragrances or parabens. It is suitable for very dry skin of the face and body, quickly moisturizes and nourishes. Moreover, the balm can be used not only by adults, but also by children, including infants. You can apply once a day.
The Ordinary Serum Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
Price: 1 495 rubles
The manufacturer recommends applying morning and evening before heavy moisturizers. So it “seals” the nutrients of the product and moisture into the pores. The serum contains a high concentration of niacinamide, so it must be tested for allergenicity before use.
ART&FACT Zinc & Niacinamide Corrective Facial Serum 10%
Price: 590 rubles
The tool helps to even out skin tone, fight impurities, acne, blackheads and remove traces of post-acne. It is sufficient to apply the serum to cleansed skin in the morning and evening. If necessary, after 15 minutes, you can use a moisturizer.